February 15, 2010

Today I went to school early to study for the finals for a couple of hours. There were a few people there from my class but I really needed to sit alone & go through things on my own. After a while I noticed they weren't studying they were filling out a scantron and going through a test booklet. Come to find out an email was sent out this weekend (that I did not get) saying we should come to the library early to take our finals & then go on to our new class at 7:00. So the two finals I was supposed to take, that count for 25% of the grade, were combined into one scantron, multiple choice test. The spice, herb, oil, vinegar test was virtually thrown out because you can't identify any of those things in black & white pictures. There were some pictures of fresh herbs that we had to identify with multiple choice, but that was about it. It was super easy, but I was a little annoyed that I studied as much as I did for a test that was so lame. Oh well, at least I know I did well & should be making A's for this term.

On to Culinary 2. Forget the remedial, stand around & watch demos, now it's time to get cooking. The only part about it that feels overwhelming is working in a commercial kitchen and producing such large quantities. Tonight we were divided into 4 groups (6 or 7 in each group) & told to make Brown Stock. Something everyone in the room should know how to do if you paid attention & took good notes in the first term. We use veal joint bones to make the stock because the veal has more cartilage & collagen in the joints than the older cows. Something else that is interesting, using beef is not the reason the stock is brown. You can actually make a white stock with veal bones. White stock doesn't just mean chicken. What makes a stock brown is browning the bones & the mirepoix (50% onion, 25% carrots, 25% celery) before making the stock. Another hint is to spread tomato paste over the browned bones about 30 minutes before they are finished browning. All of this creates a very rich flavor and color and this stock serves as a base for so many fantastic sauces that will come later.

My group finished preparing our stock first (it has to simmer all night) so we asked what else we could do since there were still 45 minutes left in class. Chef said, "Oh sure, see all those cutting boards in the sink over there? They've been soaking in bleach all weekend you can wash them." There were about 30 boards, very slimy, very gross. So I have come home tonight smelling like bleach & burnt bones. Yuck! (But I had fun!)

Brown Veal Stock:
(The sauces you can make with this stock are worth the time & effort it takes to make the stock. Measurements are ratios according to weight)


50% veal bones (knuckles & joints)

100% cold water

10% mirepoix (50% onion, 25% celery, 25% carrots)

Sachet (Black peppercorns, thyme, parsley stem , bay leaf)

On a sheet pan brown bones in 400 degree oven until brown, coat with tomato paste when almost browned, brown until caramelized. Brown mirepoix separately, best if done with no oil, because you will get better color. Add mirepoix to stockpot. Drain fat from bones and discard. Add bones to stockpot with tongs. Deglaze the pan the bones were cooked in with read wine. Add deglazing mixture to stockpot. Add sachet. Add enough COLD water to cover bones completely. Bring to a simmer. Simmer for 6-8 hours. Do not stir, season or boil. Check regularly & skim (fr. term: depouillage) impurities & scum off the top of the stock. When finished use tongs to extract bones. Ladle out large chunks of mirepoix & then strain stock through a chinois or a colander lined with cheesecloth. You now have rich, flavorful brown stock that can be used for a variety of sauces. Cool to 70 degrees in an ice bath within 2 hours & to 41 degrees within 4 hours. Don't cover until cool & don't just throw it all in the fridge. Not a good idea for many reasons. It will stay good in the refrigerator for 3 days & freeze well for a while.